Will it ever end?
The first wave of the COVID-19 pandemic is seemingly behind us. But like the rest of the world, restaurants now face the emergence of the Delta variant, causing dining establishments to deal with such challenges as vaccination policies, supply chain issues, higher food costs and serious staffing problems.
In fact, more than half of restaurant operators surveyed recently by the Washington, D.C.-based National Restaurant Association say business conditions are worse now than three months ago.
Arguably, no industry may be quite as impacted by the pandemic as restaurants, especially small, locally owned ventures.
Baltimore area restaurants have shown tremendous resourcefulness and resilience, transforming themselves into drive-throughs, grocers, movie theaters, offering pickup and delivery services, meal kits and building outdoor structures to stay afloat. All of this while working with smaller crews, reduced inventory and ever-changing rules and restrictions that often vary throughout the state.
What is common among local businesses, as opposed to chains, is their continuous involvement with and support of their communities. Throughout the pandemic, it was the homegrown, small establishments that joined forces to feed neighbors in need, including lunches for first responders and schoolchildren who no longer received free meals.
It’s not just restaurants that are struggling; the challenges trickle down to local farmers, artisan purveyors, delivery drivers and staff. Catering companies are experiencing the same concerns as restaurants and also have been adversely affected.
Not only do local restaurants support the community but many also have partnered with other local businesses, banding together to support one another. Now, more than ever, it’s important to dine, shop and support local. #ShowThemSomeLove
Dough!
A Friendly Bread
Lane Levine, the affable owner/operator/baker of A Friendly Bread, started baking in 2010 in California when his favorite pickup spot for challah was closed on the day he needed it.
Levine, who grew up in Owings Mills and now lives in Woodberry, summoned the decades of experience that his grandfather had developed in baking for friends and made challah for a Shabbat dinner.
A few years later, Levine took up the challenge of baking sourdough, a difficult process with natural fermentation and wet, unwieldy dough. He became hooked. Levine gathered a team of five taste testers who provided feedback on two flavors per weekend for two months, but not all of the breads turned out great. One of the comments on the feedback forms was that it was “a friendly bread,” hence the name.
Most of A Friendly Bread’s products are naturally leavened, meaning they are made with a sourdough starter consisting of fermenting colonies of wild yeast and bacteria. Bread made in this manner is thought to be healthier, easier for gluten-sensitive people to digest, and much gentler on sugar levels for people with diabetes. (afriendlybread.com)
Flour BouqCakes
Jeweler Barbie Levy realized that her business was slowing down when COVID hit, so she launched a side business: Flour BouqCakes. The baking biz took off via word of mouth and her gorgeous works of art, floral cakes and cupcakes are now the talk of the town.
Think vanilla buttercream frosting on chocolate or vanilla cake! To place an order (for pick up in Ellicott City only), call 410-207-8997. (facebook.com/FlourBouqCakes/)
What’s Happenin’?
Boxed by Pierpoint
Chef Nancy Longo’s Fells Point restaurant switched to specialty boxed meals for takeout and delivery during the height of the pandemic, and they’re still going strong.
Now, Longo has launched a healthy menu with delicious meals for those with dietary restrictions including allergy-friendly, gluten-free and diabetic options. They’ve also expanded their delivery area with weekly routes to various communities.
Want tasty treats delivered to your neighborhood? Call Pierpoint and set up a route for you and your neighbors! Helpful hint: Get the flourless chocolate cake — it’s to die for! (pierpointrestaurant.com)
Black Friday @ Max’s Taphouse
Attention, beer aficionados. On Friday, NovemBEER 26, from 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m., it’s Black Friday @ Max’s Taphouse. Enjoy rare, barrel-aged stouts and porters inside, outside or carryout. And you can support other local businesses by enjoying homegrown brews from Idiom Brewing Co. (Frederick), Suspended Brewing Co. (Baltimore/Pigtown), Cushwa Brewing Co. (Williamsport) and Black Flag Brewing Co (Columbia). (shop.maxs.com)
Red Star Fells Point
The old Red Star restaurant, bar and bottle shop in Fells Point has undergone a revitalization that showcases Cyrus Keefer as the new executive chef, revamped menu selections, expanded wine, craft cocktails and craft beer lists.
The hand-tossed pizzas’ puffy, slightly charred crust is reminiscent of Philly and New York-style pies. Keefer’s stellar culinary reputation is based, in part, on his expertise in combining flavors and textures from multiple cuisines. At the Red Star, Italian influences are prominent in several dishes including pecorino fries, meatballs in tomato gravy and risotto croquettes. Even the basics — bacon cheeseburgers, Roseda rib-eye steaks and chicken wings — have elevated flavor profiles.
Keefer has been recognized by StarChefs.com for his creative cuisine at Fork & Wrench and 13.5% Wine Bar, and has cooked at The James Beard House Restaurant. (redstarfellspoint.com)
Saval
With the launch of its new e-commerce store, Saval deli products are now available nationwide with fresh one-to two-day delivery. The Saval deli website now offers several signature items, with the addition of Paul Saval’s personal favorite, the premium beef franks.
“The feedback has been very positive, and it’s been exciting to hear from customers who adore the products but don’t have a local grocery store that stocks them,” said the Saval president and CEO. “Since our founding in 1932, we have always made products for the local delicatessens and grocers who demand exceptional quality for their customers. Of course, nothing will ever beat a hot corned beef or pastrami sandwich from your favorite local deli. There is just no replacement for that tradition or experience. However, for those unable to access that, by popular demand we’re excited to provide the option of fresh one- to two-day nationwide delivery.” (savalfoods.com)
Online Farmers Market
Market Wagon, an online farmers market, is now available in Baltimore, Washington, Carroll, Frederick, Harford, Anne Arundel, Howard, Montgomery and Prince George’s counties.
With Market Wagon, you can shop hundreds of local farms, farmers market vendors and food artisans. Market Wagon is a direct-to-consumer, locally sourced food market that helps local food producers to thrive. Now, you can have baked goods and artisan foodstuffs delivered to your front door. Orders are filled every Thursday. No subscription is required. (marketwagon.com/delivery/Maryland)
Big Scoop!
Currently residing in Los Angeles, Jenna Morgan Grossbart was raised in Owings Mills by her parents, Robert and Lisa Grossbart. After experiencing some health issues, she began looking for an allergen-friendly, health-focused ice cream — her favorite treat — and was … underwhelmed. The existing brands offered fewer calories and less fat, but that often meant the products supplemented traditional ingredients with harmful ones or they simply lacked flavor.
She set out to create a product that was “better for you” without sacrificing flavor and — voilà! — Holi Scoops is a more indulgent, wholesome, healthy holistic ice cream, and just as healthy as it is delicious.
Through a blend of minimally processed, nutrient-dense ingredients and carefully chosen healing adaptogens (certain herbs or mushrooms believed to have health benefits including reducing stress levels), flavor options include “Vanilla Being” infused with maca, “Double Chocolate Chipper” with chaga, and “Conscious Coffee” infused with lion’s mane.
Coming soon to the East Coast! (instagram.com/holiscoops/)
Fond Farewells
The popular Village Square Cafe in Cross Keys closed after 13 years of business citing a lack of employees, an issue many restaurants are experiencing these days.
The owners announced the closing on their Facebook page saying, “We simply cannot find qualified kitchen staff to keep up with the volume of business. With no end in sight to the present employment crisis, we can no longer compromise and disappoint you, our wonderful friends. Unfortunately, what we have so lovingly built is simply no longer sustainable.”
Towson’s Cafe Troia, which opened in 1986, has closed its doors. Once word of the impending closure was announced, the restaurant was inundated with requests for reservations for one last meal at the popular dining spot. (Thanks for the memories. Thanks for the Bolognese.)
Coming Soon
Bandito’s Bar & Kitchen offers tacos, burritos, bowls and other tasty Mexican street food, as well as handcrafted cocktails and an extensive collection of tequilas and mescals. With locations in Federal Hill and White Marsh, the local chain will take over the spot vacated by Cafe Troia in Towson. (banditosbk.com)
Randi Rom is president of RJ Rom & Associates. She is a freelance columnist and writer who represents some of the region’s top restaurants and food-related events. Contact her at randirom@comcast.net.
Dara Bunjon talks sustainable farming, chocolate, and more with farmer, chef, educator and chocolatier Mark Mills of Chocolates and Tomatoes Farm in Middletown.
Dara Bunjon talks with cook, writer and television host Monti Carlo about her new cookbook, "Spanglish: Recipes & Stories," and more.
At a time of economic uncertainty, Yossef's Laffa-Milia, a new kosher restaurant in Owings Mills is thriving.
This lemon and dill salmon recipe from Elite Jakob celebrates the delicious colors, aromas and tastes of spring.