Yes, the COVID-19 pandemic has receded — thank goodness! — but regretfully, we’ve had to bid farewell to some of our area’s favorite long-standing restaurants, including Brian Boston’s The Milton Inn, Clyde’s in Columbia, Lobo Fells Point and Mount Vernon’s City Cafe, to name but a few.
Over the past couple of years, the food service industry faced many challenges that restaurateurs conquered daily, but the pandemic was one major obstacle many just couldn’t overcome.
After years of trying to adapt to the new reality — with everything from carryout windows and outdoor seating to newly crafted menus and delivery/pickup options — homegrown dining spots continue to struggle climbing out of massive financial holes.
At the outset, no one expected the pandemic to last so long. Many restaurant owners simply took out loans, dipped into their kids’ college accounts and amassed significant debt to get by. Small margins are standard for mom-and-pop establishments, and they don’t have solid financial backing like some of the big-box outfits that received an inordinate amount of PPP (Paycheck Protection Program) benefits.
Now, the eateries that survived the pandemic are coping with such issues as inflation and higher costs for rent, food, labor and supplies.
“We’re still here, hanging by a thread, but the situation is in some ways harder than during the pandemic,” says Nancy Longo, owner and executive chef at Pierpoint in Fells Point for more than three decades. “One of our biggest problems is hiring and retaining staff. I hire people and they just don’t show up. It’s crazy. And inflation is absurd. We have to regularly alter our menu to fit exorbitant food costs. Crab meat used to be $25 per pound, now it’s $38! And the public understandably doesn’t want to spend $50 for a crabcake.
“Like everyone else, we’re still pivoting,” she says. “We’ve added several less expensive options and we still do our weekly takeout, Boxed by Pierpoint menus, which are an incredible value. We’re also doing specialty dinners that make it easier for guests to justify the expense because it’s a unique experience, like our ‘old Baltimore’ dinner dishes from restaurants gone by like Haussner’s, Thompson’s Sea Girt House, Danny’s and The Pimlico.
“All the local spots are trying to be creative and adjust.”
More than ever, local restaurants need your support. Check out what’s happening on the dining scene, where local celebrities and food influencers like to eat, what “ex-pats” miss the most and some fantastic recipes.
Now Open for Business
Ryan Perlberg, owner of such popular Baltimore dining spots as Stuggy’s and Rye, recently opened Charly’s Waterfront, a year-round seafood restaurant at the Baltimore Boating Center at Sue Creek, in the Middle River area. And they’ve been receiving rave reviews. (charlyswaterfront.com)
Meanwhile, Church, a new cocktail bar from hospitality leader (and ex-theologian) Chelsea Gregoire and partners Martha Lucius and Marisa Dobson, recently opened in the Old Goucher neighborhood of Baltimore. The opening slate of cocktails is a thoughtfully curated list of 10 (including five spirit-free versions).
The drinks are modern interpretations of classic cocktails, concocted with house-made sodas, juices and syrups. Communal plates, designed to be shared, are developed by culinary professionals accepted into Church’s chef residency. This quarterly program is an experiment in creating a new kitchen standard that fosters mentorship, experimentation and Church’s vision of community.
The opening menu offers dishes including rock under a brick (local rockfish with sweet pepper and onion escabeche) and braised beef cheeks with silky potatoes. (filledwiththespirits.com/)
Mount Vernon Marketplace’s The Local Oyster opened a new location in Locust Point. Tasty options include fried shrimp or oyster roll, crab mac-and-cheese and funnel cake. And, of course, there’s a loaded raw bar. (thelocaloyster.com)
From the folks behind The Wurst Bar (speakeasy-inspired) and RegionAle (sandwiches) comes Fat Patties burgers and beer, which opened in Locust Point in the spot formerly occupied by the World of Beer. Look for an arcade, tap wall, monster milkshakes, beef fat fries, custom-blend smashburgers and Crabby Patties. (eatfatpatties.com)
Cinnaholic, a gourmet cinnamon roll bakery at the Rotunda, offers 20 different frostings, scratch brownies, cookies and edible cookie dough. All their products are plant-based, fresh baked and 100 percent vegan, dairy and lactose-free, egg-free and cholesterol-free. (cinnaholicrotunda.com)
Bloom’s, a cocktail lounge, recently opened in the new Hotel Ulysses in Mount Vernon’s historic Latrobe Building. Drinks are seasonal and snacks are available. (ash.world/hotels/ulysses)
Coming Soon
Titan Hospitality is slated to open a pair of new restaurants in Columbia’s Merriweather District early next year. Blackwall Barn & Lodge is a coastally inspired concept where you’ll find seasonally driven and locally sourced food and spirits, as well as live music. Smashing Grapes offers a fusion of Mediterranean and California coastal cuisines paired with wine and craft cocktails.
Daniel Hlusak is Titan’s culinary director, but the big news for Baltimoreans is that the corporate chef is none other than Neal Langermann from the now-defunct Canton restaurant. (I can’t tell you how many people have said to me over the past five years, “I miss Langermann’s.” I do too!)
Also opening soon in the Merriweather District is Banditos Tacos & Tequila, where you can enjoy Mexican street food, handcrafted cocktails and an extensive collection of tequilas and mezcals. Banditos currently has locations in Federal Hill, Towson and White Marsh. (banditostnt.com)
Izakaya 38 is opening in Hunt Valley Towne Centre, offering authentic Japanese dishes including a variety of meats and vegetables, grilled over binchotan charcoal. Binchotan charcoal (also known as white charcoal) is said to be the purest charcoal on Earth. Made from oak, the high carbon content brings out the natural flavors of the food. (izakaya68.com)
Restaurant & Wine Bar, the Amalfi Coast-inspired Italian restaurant located at Anthem House in Locust Point, will open a new concept in the same building called Limoncello Pizzeria. (limoncellobaltimore.com)
Looking to the Future
After a decade in business, Rosenfeld’s Jewish Delicatessen in Ocean City was originally going to close but has announced it will remain open for at least two more years. The South Bethany and Rehoboth beach locations will also remain open, as will the Wilmington spot. After 30 years, Canton’s iconic sports bar Looney’s Pub has been sold to the owners of El Bufalo Tequila Bar & Kitchen and Raw and Refined. According to a post on Looney’s Facebook page, the new owners will keep Looney’s concept as is for the time being.
Randi Rom is president of RJ Rom & Associates. She is a freelance columnist and writer who represents some of the region’s top restaurants and food-related events. Contact her at randirom@comcast.net.
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