Restaurant News: Good for What Ales Ya!

Zadie's Lager is a tribute to Henry "Zadie" Benesch, grandfather of Union Craft Brewing co-founder Adam Benesch. Zadie worked at Union Craft Brewing until his passing at the age of nearly 101. (Provided photos)

If you’re a beer aficionado and have not yet been to Union Craft Brewing, you must go!

Located in the former Sears warehouse in the historic Woodberry neighborhood (near Hampden, Hon!), Union Craft Brewing is a homegrown, independent craft brewery that anchors the Union Collective (union-collective.com). The collective is comprised of locally owned businesses including Vent Coffee Roasters and The Charmery, the ice cream company run by David and Laura Alima.

Union Craft Brewing (unioncraftbrewing.com) offers seasonal, small-batch and year-round beers at its Union Hall and — weather-permitting — in its Beer Garden. One product I want to highlight is Zadie’s Lager, a premium American light lager designed to evoke an independent spirit and unique personality.

Zadie’s Lager is a tribute to Henry “Zadie” Benesch, grandfather of Union Craft Brewing co-founder Adam Benesch. Henry worked at Union Craft Brewing, folding corrugated case tray boxes, from the age of 96 until his passing in January of 2021 just days shy of his 101st birthday. His influence on the culture of the company is part of his legacy and the creation of Zadie’s Lager.

My mother, “Mom Rom,” used to tell me stories about drinking root beer floats at “The Diner.” What about if Union Craft and The Charmery teamed up and creating a “Zadie’s Float”?

Speaking of beer, a massive congratulations to Ronnie and Gail Furman, owners of Max’s Taphouse in Fells Point, who were just named “Best Beer Bar” in the nation by USA Today!

BTW, Max’s sells Union Craft beer and smoke their own BBQ! (maxs.com)

Sammy’s II & the Shark

Sammy’s Trattoria II, the Baltimore County cousin of the well-known and beloved Mount Vernon restaurant, recently opened at 118 Shawan Rd. in the Hunt Valley Towne Centre.

I haven’t gotten there yet, but Judge Sweeney’s Pappardelle alla Bolognese, Judge Oshrine’s Eggplant Lasagna and Aunt Jean’s Crab Toast are on my list for my first visit. The menu looks amazing and I’m hearing great things from my foodie friends, including that you should make reservations in advance. (sammystrattoria.com/sammys-ii)

Locust Point’s Copper Shark restaurant opened to great fanfare over the summer and is now expanding its upscale menu to include tasty brunch Items on Saturdays and Sundays. They also unveiled a new cocktail menu. Look for tasty tidbits including Cinnamon Roll Donuts, Prime Beef Carpaccio, Crispy Friend Burrata, and Duck Confit Omelet Frites. Offerings from the cocktail menu include “Penicillin” (scotch, ginger, honey, lemon, mint), “Sinatra Sour” (bourbon, spiced apple cider, lemon, red wine) and “Breakfast Old-Fashioned” with bacon fat-washed buffalo trace, maple and orange bitters.

copper shark
Locust Point’s Copper Shark restaurant is expanding its menu to include tasty brunch Items on Saturdays and Sundays. (Provided photo)

Located in a historic building at 921 E. Fort Avenue, Copper Shark pays homage to the “Free State” and the 1933 repeal of Prohibition by serving authentic bottles of privately labeled bourbons aged to perfection. The creative upscale lunch, dinner and brunch menus are bourbon-inspired with seasonal American fare. (thecoppershark.com).

Doing the Groundwork

Paul’s Place recently announced that Jonathan Hicks is the new executive chef of Groundwork Kitchen, the nonprofit’s full-service restaurant located at 926 Washington Blvd. in South Baltimore’s Pigtown community.

The 120-seat restaurant, which has been closed since January of 2022 due to the pandemic, is set to reopen this month. A Maryland native, Chef Hicks brings two decades of restaurant experience to Groundwork Kitchen. He has helped with the opening efforts of Earth Wood & Fire in Mount Washington, Cosima at Mill No.1 in Hampden, and most recently Cozy Café in Ellicott City. He’s also been a part of several noteworthy kitchens, including Waterfront Kitchen (with Chef Jerry Pellegrino), and Birroteca/Nickel Taphouse (with Chef Melanie Molinaro and Chef Robbin Haas).

Chef Jonathan Hicks
Jonathan Hicks is the new executive chef of Groundwork Kitchen. (Provided photo).

Built as a social enterprise of Paul’s Place with a culinary arts program on the lower level of the building, every meal prepared at Groundwork Kitchen supports the training and employment of a community member. (groundworkkitchen.com)

Bye, Bye Bertha’s

For the past half-century, the Norris family has owned and operated Bertha’s Mussels, a go-to restaurant and bar in Fells Point. Bertha’s is famous not only for its food and camaraderie but the green “Eat Bertha’s” bumper stickers you can find just about everywhere! (I once saw one in Alaska!)

I’ve worked with Andy Norris for years on festivals, promotions and charitable events. Like everyone else, I’m genuinely sad to see Bertha’s go. It is truly an end of an era.

Randi Rom

Randi Rom is president of RJ Rom & Associates. She is a freelance columnist and writer who represents some of the region’s top restaurants and food-related events. Contact her at randirom@comcast.net.

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