By Harry Rubenstein
This story originally appeared on The Nosher.
Nothing — and I mean nothing — beats a perfectly fried sufganiya fresh out of hot oil, dusted with powdered sugar, still warm enough to make the jam dangerously hot.
That’s peak Chanukah right there.
But if you’re feeding a crowd or just don’t want to smell your house up with hot oil, here’s a pretty fantastic baked version for you. Fair warning: This is a rich dough that’s going to feel more like a very, very thick cake batter than bread dough when you first mix it.
Between the eggs, butter and milk, you’re working with a seriously wet dough that’s going to test your patience and stick to everything it touches. But don’t panic — this is exactly what you want. All that richness is going to give you tender, pillowy sufganiyot that pull apart like clouds.
Here’s how to deal with the sticky situation: First, resist the urge to add more flour. Instead, embrace the chill — a cold dough is easier to handle. After the first rise, pop it in the fridge for 30 minutes. When shaping, keep your hands lightly oiled rather than floured. The oil prevents sticking without toughening the dough like extra flour would.
The payoff? Gorgeously golden, honeycomb-patterned pull-apart sufganiyot that look like they came from a high-end bakery. They’re tender, rich and perfect for filling with whatever your heart desires. Plus, since they’re baked, you can make a whole batch at once instead of frying in little batches while your family hovers around you like hungry seagulls.
Is it traditional? Maybe not. But neither was adding Nutella as a filling, and we all know how that turned out. Besides, if anyone gives you grief about baking instead of frying, just remind them that the real miracle of Chanukah was about making things last longer than expected — and these beauties will definitely stick around at least a day longer than their fried cousins.
This story originally appeared on The Nosher. Harry Rubenstein is a pastry chef and culinary guide of Israel’s open-air food markets.

