This article is part of Jmore’s May/June 2021 Travel Issue featuring nearby getaways for the not-so-accidental tourist.
Since it’s no secret that Paris is my favorite place in the world, it may come as a surprise that I also have a fondness for quaint small towns. So I’m not sure why it took me so long to visit Havre de Grace, which has it all — charm, history, a scenic waterfront and picturesque main street lined with trendy restaurants and stores.
If you’re itching to get out but not ready to venture too far afield, let me suggest the quick 45-minute drive to Havre de Grace, which in 2014 was named by Smithsonian Magazine as one of America’s 20 best small towns to visit.
Founded in 1782, Havre de Grace is situated at the mouth of the Susquehanna River and the head of the Chesapeake Bay. French (hmmm, maybe that’s one reason I like the town so much!) for “harbor of grace,” the story has it that during the Revolutionary War, French General Marquis de Lafayette visited the town, then named Susquehanna Lower Ferry, and remarked that the area reminded him of the French seaport of Le Havre (whose original name had been Le Havre-de-Grâce).
With Lafayette’s comments serving as inspiration, the residents incorporated the town and renamed it Havre de Grace in 1785. Today, you can stroll along the boardwalk promenade, enjoy the downtown arts district, visit historical attractions and enjoy traditional Chesapeake Bay pastimes such as fishing, boating and bird-watching.
In between popping in and out of shops and enjoying a soft shell crab lunch just steps from the waterfront, I learned these six fun facts from reading the many well-placed historical markers around town:
- During the First Congress in 1789, Havre de Grace was just a single vote from being designated the capital of the United States. (It lost to Philadelphia.)
- That same year, President George Washington stayed overnight in Havre de Grace on the journey to New York City for his first inauguration.
- In May of 1813, the city was burned to the ground by British naval forces during the War of 1812.
- Before and during the Civil War, Havre de Grace was a primary town on the eastern route of the Underground Railroad.
- During Prohibition, Havre de Grace enjoyed the nickname “Little Chicago.” Reportedly among the ne’er-do-wells who dropped by the town during that period was Al Capone.
- Havre de Grace is home to the skipjack Martha Lewis, one of the last remaining working dredge boats of the Chesapeake Bay oyster fleet.
Of course you’ll want to explore on your own (don’t forget to check out any pandemic restrictions at explorehavredegrace.com). Here are eight of my favorite stops:
Havre de Grace Decoy Museum
215 Giles St.
410-939-3739
decoymuseum.com
Waterfowl art is popular in the Chesapeake Bay region, and this museum celebrates the unique American folk art of decoy carving. Tours, demonstrations, lectures and special events take place year-round.
Havre de Grace Maritime Museum and Environmental Center
100 Lafayette St.
410-939-4800
hdgmaritimemuseum.org
You can learn about the region’s rich maritime heritage through the museum’s educational exhibits, monthly lectures and programs like a working boat shop and a new environmental center.
The Lafayette Trail
visitharford.com/listing/lafayette-trail/820/
This three-mile, self-guided tour begins at the city’s North Park. Havre de Grace has a rich architectural history with approximately 800 historic structures on display as you walk, drive or ride a bike along its tree-lined streets.
The Promenade
visitharford.com/listing/the-promenade-in-havre-de-grace/308/
The Promenade is a scenic three-quarter-mile boardwalk you can stroll to enjoy the views of the Susquehanna. The Promenade is adjacent to Tydings Park, the Decoy Museum, Maritime Museum and the Concord Point Light.
Washington Street Books & Entertainment Museum
131 N. Washington St.
410-939-6215
washingtonstreetbooksandmusic.com
Books galore (including a law book dating to the 16th century), music, an extensive comic book collection and an entertainment museum featuring costumes from a variety of movies.
Bahoukas Antique Mall & Beer MuZeum
408 N. Union Ave.
410-942-1290
bahoukas.com
Not only is the building packed full of antiques, but beer lovers will enjoy the Beer MuZeum, with its collection of beer lights, bar signs, mirrors, glasses, steins, tap handles and more.
Concord Point Lighthouse & Keeper’s House Museum
Foot of Lafayette Street
410-939-3213
concordpointlighthouse.org
Built in 1827, Concord Point is the oldest continuously operated lighthouse in Maryland and has a spectacular view of the bay. Across the street you can visit the restored Keeper’s House, which offers a look at the interesting story of lighthouse keeper John O’Neill, as well as the history of Havre de Grace’s best-known landmark.
Bomboy’s Homemade Ice Cream
329 Market St.
410-939-2924
bomboyscandy.com
OK, need I say more? Enjoy the wonders of Havre de Grace!
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